Interactive lesson

Timber framing, step by step

Interactive lesson: which wood for what, seasoning timber, protection without poisons, sizes for beams and rafters, joints, bracing and checking old timber.

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The whole lesson as text

1. Timber as a building material

Old barns and granaries last for centuries, built from ordinary timber from the nearby woods.

  1. Wood for the ground — Only black locust (robinia), oak heartwood or sweet chestnut goes in the ground. Locust lasts 20–30 years in the ground.
  2. Spruce and pine under a roof — Spruce, fir and pine are for beams, rafters and battens under a roof. Outdoors only with design protection or treated.
  3. Boxed heart — Ask the sawmill for spruce and pine beams free of heart (pith), because the heart splits as it dries. Oak is the other way round: the heartwood is the most durable, so cut off the sapwood.
  4. Check every beam — For a load-bearing part don't take a beam with a large knot on the edge, sloping grain, a split through the thickness, rot or a strong bow.

Why: They last because the timber is dry, doesn't touch the ground and has a roof with an overhang. A new lean-to of treated spruce, posts concreted into the ground and no overhang, can rot in ten years.

  • Beech rots outdoors in 2–3 years. Poplar and willow are only for temporary things and under cover.
  • A rural sawmill often has no grade stamp (such as C24, or No. 2 in the US). Then choose yourself and go up a size.

2. Moisture and seasoning

Freshly felled wood holds 50–100 % moisture, and as it dries it shrinks.

  1. Moisture up to 20 % — For framing, timber at up to 20 % moisture. Measure with a pin meter in the middle of a board, not at the end.
  2. Base and gaps — A level base 30–40 cm off the ground. In each layer leave 2–3 cm gaps between pieces.
  3. Stickers one above the other — Dry stickers of equal thickness (2–2.5 cm) every 50–60 cm, exactly one above the other. Otherwise the timber bends.
  4. Roof, weight, label — A roof of metal sheet or boards, sides open. Weight on top so the top layers don't twist, and a label on the end: species, date, size.

Why: Across the grain it shrinks by up to 8 %, along it almost nothing. A beam built in green dries in the frame, twists, splits and loosens the joints.

  • The old carpenters' rule: a year per inch (2.5 cm) of thickness. A 10 × 10 cm beam is ready to build with after two or three years.
  • Seal the ends of oak and chestnut with wax, paint or wood glue so they don't split.

3. Protection without poisons · Locked

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4. Sizes: post, beam, rafter · Locked

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5. Joints · Locked

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6. Bracing: a triangle holds · Locked

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7. Checking old timber · Locked

Buy the Timber framing module and you get the PDF to download and print, plus lifetime access to this interactive lesson: all 7 chapters, 28 steps.