Interactive lesson

Two-wheel tractor, step by step

Interactive lesson: choose the machine, work safely with the tiller, plough, mower and trailer, and keep up the servicing so the machine lasts for decades.

Free sample Chapters 1 and 2 (8 steps) are free. The full lesson comes with the Two-wheel tractors and attachments module. Already bought? Unlock

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The whole lesson as text

1. Choosing the machine

First work out whether you need a machine at all, and only then choose which one.

  1. Machine or contractor — Write down the jobs and the hours of work a year. A machine that works fewer than 20–30 hours a year rarely pays for itself, so a contractor is often cheaper.
  2. Tiller or two-wheel tractor — A front-tine tiller has tines instead of wheels and only tills; it is enough for a garden up to 500 m². A two-wheel tractor has wheels, a gearbox and a PTO, so it carries a tiller, plough, mower and trailer.
  3. PTO and reverse — The tiller, mower, pump and snow blower run off the power take-off; without it the machine is only a tiller. The gearbox needs at least 2–3 forward gears and one reverse.
  4. Handlebars and safety lever — The handlebars adjust for height and sideways, so you don't walk on the tilled soil. The operator presence control stops the engine or drive as soon as you let go.

Why: A two-wheel tractor that works two days a year is an expensive toy. A machine pays for itself when it does several jobs: tilling, mowing, hauling and snow. Shops sell very different machines under the name "rotavator" or "tiller".

  • Before you buy, try the machine with your own hands: lift the handlebars and turn it as you would at the end of a row.
  • With an old model such as a Howard, Merry Tiller or Gravely, first check that parts and a mechanic are available nearby.

2. The rotary tiller

The tiller is the most common attachment, and that is why it is the most often misused.

  1. Dress right, check the soil — Safety boots with toe caps, long trousers and ear defenders, never sandals. The soil must not be wet: do the ball test.
  2. Depth bar and guard — Set the depth bar behind the tiller to 10–15 cm (4–6 in). The guard must cover the tines from above and behind; start in a low gear with low throttle, and don't push the machine.
  3. Reverse without the tiller — Always disengage the tiller before walking backwards, because behind you there is often a fence, a tree or a ditch. Clear wrapped grass only after you switch off the engine.
  4. All tines at once — Replace all the tines on one flange, in the same arrangement: curved left and right alternately. Before you take them off, photograph the arrangement on your phone.

Why: Reversing with the tiller engaged is the most dangerous moment of working with a two-wheel tractor: the tines move towards your feet. Wet soil is not tilled. Worn tines don't cut, they smear.

  • Tiller width: 50–60 cm (20–24 in) for the garden and polytunnel, 70–90 cm (28–36 in) for a field.
  • At the end of the row press down on the handlebars so the tiller comes out of the soil, disengage it, turn the machine, and only then lower the tiller into the next row.

3. The plough · Locked

Buy the Two-wheel tractors and attachments module and you get the PDF to download and print, plus lifetime access to this interactive lesson: all 6 chapters, 24 steps.

4. The mower · Locked

Buy the Two-wheel tractors and attachments module and you get the PDF to download and print, plus lifetime access to this interactive lesson: all 6 chapters, 24 steps.

5. The trailer · Locked

Buy the Two-wheel tractors and attachments module and you get the PDF to download and print, plus lifetime access to this interactive lesson: all 6 chapters, 24 steps.

6. Servicing and laying up · Locked

Buy the Two-wheel tractors and attachments module and you get the PDF to download and print, plus lifetime access to this interactive lesson: all 6 chapters, 24 steps.