Interactive lesson

Vine pruning, step by step

Interactive lesson: from how a vine is built and the right time to prune to how many buds to keep, the fruiting cane, cordon, pergola, summer canopy work and renewing a neglected vine.

Free sample Chapters 1 and 2 (8 steps) are free. The full lesson comes with the Pruning and caring for vines through the year module. Already bought? Unlock

This lesson is general guidance, not professional training. Local regulations and expert advice always take precedence. Read our disclaimer.

The whole lesson as text

1. How a vine is built

Before the first cut, learn the names of the parts of a vine.

Trunk and arm — The trunk is the main stem from the ground to the fruiting wire, with dark, flaky bark. An arm is a permanent branch of the trunk.
The cane bears the crop — A cane is last year’s shoot that has turned woody: brown, smooth, with buds at the nodes. Fruitful shoots grow from those buds.
Fruiting cane and spur — A fruiting cane is a cane shortened to 6–10 buds and bears this year’s crop. A spur is a short stub with 2 buds: the replacement for next year.
Old wood is barren — A shoot from the trunk or an arm (water shoot) is usually barren. The most fruitful buds are the 3rd to the 10th from the base; the blind buds at the base are not counted.

Why: Grapes are borne on this year’s shoots, which grow from the buds of last year’s canes. Buds on old wood mostly give barren shoots. So every year a new cane is kept, and the old one that has fruited is removed.

Growers use several names: the fruiting cane is also called a rod, the spur a renewal spur.
A shoot is this year’s green growth; a lateral is a side shoot from a leaf axil.

2. When and with what to prune

Prune after the hardest frosts, in dry weather, with sharp, clean tools.

Late December to February — Prune from late December to February, once the hardest frosts are past. In the UK and Ireland aim to finish by early February; in cold parts of North America prune in late winter (February–March).
A dry day — Prune in dry weather, with no rain or fog for 1–2 days afterwards. Trunk-disease fungi (esca, eutypa) enter through wet wounds.
Sharp, clean tools — Sharp secateurs, loppers for thick canes and a narrow pruning saw for old arms. Clean the secateurs with alcohol between suspect vines.
Slanted cut above a bud — Cut at a slant, 1–2 cm above a bud, sloping away from it. Next to old wood leave a 1–2 cm stub; seal large wounds with grafting wax or wound paste.

Why: Pruning before the hardest frosts leaves the wounds exposed to winter cold. Trunk-disease fungi get in through wet wounds. Prune diseased vines last, so you don’t carry the disease on your tools.

Wear a glove on the hand that holds the cane and never keep a finger in front of the blade.
When pruned late, cuts “weep” sap. It is not dangerous and does not weaken the vine.